Stowaways on the Mangalore to Cochin line

Posted on Apr 19, 2010 under Blog update | 107 Comments

When it came for us to get the overnight train from Mangalore to Cochin, we were determined.

We’d already had a bad experience with Indian trains and been left on the platform with our tickets, tired and confused as we watched our train pull away without us. This time it was going to go as planned.

We booked our ticket on the internet and made our way to Mangalore station. Once again, our names hadn’t made it to any of the lists that had been taped to the side of each carriage. But we confidently got on anyway and made our way to the air-conditioned compartment we had been promised on our print-out ticket. But it seems our ticket was merely that, a promise, as we were soon ordered to leave the train.

We stood firm and eventually the conductor fined us and moved us to second class. We had no idea what this meant but as the carriages aren’t connected, we had to wait until the next station to find out.

It was fine! We easily found seats and spots for our luggage and contentedly sat down, prepared for our nine-hour journey. As people got off we had more space and could stretch out completely, we had no idea why we hadn’t chosen this class in the first place.

But at the next station, it seemed as though half of south west India joined us. The row of seats that comfortably sat four people (of Indian proportions), now had six people, including us, two, much taller and broader westerners. People were sat in the aisles, at our feet and on the luggage racks above our heads. Just when you thought no more people could possibly fit in, 20 more people would find tiny spaces to contort themselves in to. Small villages and spectacular scenery whizzed past in the dusk as we tried to grab a bit of the air coming through the red-barred window.

We’d never been so pleased to get off a train. Tired, achey and clammy we found an auto-rickshaw driver to take us to our hotel. After some half-hearted bartering on our part, we agreed a price for him to take us to Fort Cochin, a popular tourist area brimming with European heritage and culture and famous for its Chinese fishing nets. Squeezed in with our luggage in the back, we banged our heads and grabbed our bags, and each other, as the driver hit potholes and swerved around sleeping cows and dogs in the road. When we arrived at our lovely heritage home-stay there was no sign of life. I had booked and paid, but we were late and there was no chance of us finding any other accommodation at this peak time of year, in the middle of the night. And after the journey we had just had, knowing there was a big comfy bed behind the big brown gates was pure torture.

Fortunately, our auto driver was also determined. He wasn’t going to leave us stranded with nowhere to stay. He rang the number displayed on the board outside and eventually managed to rouse the owner.

We doubled our kind driver’s pay with a generous tip and will never forget the look on his face as he kissed the money.

Have you had a similar journey in India? I’d love to hear about it. Please do write in the box below if you have any comments or questions about this post. This post has been entered into the Grantourismo-HomeAway travel writing competition.

107 Responses to “Stowaways on the Mangalore to Cochin line”

  1. jessiev Says:

    i’ve not been to india, yet. it seems really discouraging as a traveler with disabilities. that said, the kindness you found (as evidenced by your fantastic taxi driver!) is global, isn’t it?

    good luck!

  2. Ali Says:

    Hi Jessiev

    Don’t be too discouraged, there are other ways to travel. This was over New Year and an incredibly busy time. If you can book ahead it’s much easier but the train system is quite complicated if you can’t get to a train station and do it over the internet, so research and organisation is required – something we couldn’t do as our travel arrangements changed at the last minute due to flight delays. However, for other parts of the trip we hired a driver. That worked out to be quite good value, and we got taken to amazing temples and other places that we would never have seen otherwise.
    I loved that taxi driver!

  3. Anca Popa Says:

    Hi Ali,

    Just thought I should let you know that this month Grantourismo is running a new competition with the theme ‘Food and Travel’, so if you have a memorable food experience from your travels please feel free to share it with us. We’d love to hear from you again!

    http://grantourismotravels.com/2010/05/05/grantourismo-travel-blogging-competition-may/

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